rear brakes layout

Solid axle cars I have seen use hard lines on the axle with a single hose attaching in the middle.  My axle was set up this way, but the hard lines in the car had a hose at each wheel.  I decided to go with a hose directly to each wheel.  In retrospect it may have been simpler to tee the hard lines in the car together then connected them to the axle at the single point.

Ford has a clever way of doing brake hoses where the hose indexed into its mount with a small tab so it won't rotate:

I was hoping to preserve both this feature and preserve the mounting point for the hose to avoid the extra work I had to do for the front brakes.  I need brake hoses long enough that when I jack up the car I don't hang the axle from the hoses, but not so long that they have enough free movement to touch the tire.
Dorman's website allows me to search hoses by many different criteria.  I don't think three are any hoses with the Ford end that are female - female and long enough to reach.  The front of the car uses a long enough hose that is female - male.  To see if I could make the front hose work I tapped a piece of 11 gage sheet as a braket and there is enough room to thread the hose into it, then thread on a union. It looks about perfect:

The piece in the image and shown below is a bit of hard line I made to connect to the drum brake.  The left end is double flare and connects to the drum brake.  They right end is bubble flare and mates with the hose/union.

driveshaft weld up

It is nice if I think I lathed the end straight, and also nice that I think I cut the shaft tube straight, but I decided driveshaft runout is probably the only thing that counts, so I decided to check it before I tacked it up, and I am glad I did.  There was about.080 TIM.  I looked online and it seems like people think somewhere from .005 to .020 is ok.  People report stuff like .060 being good to 80 mph, sometimes. The transmission end of the shaft measured at .020 so I made that my target.

I marked what was high and low, pulled the shaft out and tried to beat the cap straighter.  Put it back in, and checked it.  After repeating this process 3 or 4 times I was below .020 so I tacked it:

 I made this rig so I could in theory roll the tube while I welded.

It was easy enough to start and stop on the tacks so I didn't need to roll it.  I dipped the tungsten 0 times which was nice.  I could have slid along at like 85 amps and made this beautiful, but the bevel was pretty tight, so I had to really watch to make sure the puddle was wetting all the way to the bottom before jamming rod in.  Consequently I had to bake this a little bit especially with the heavy casting on the other side.  I went at like 110 amps and even that was probably a bit low as I was floored and waiting most of the time.  But it looks pretty good I think:

drive shaft shortening

I installed the slip yoke on the end that already has the right size u joint.

Next I have to liberate the end of the shaft so that I can weld it on later.

by the way, the tubing is .095 wall which was heavier than I expected.  Next I need to separate the steel tube from the casting.
I assume that the shoulder under the trunion is parallel to the u joint axis so I lined the part up based on that:

Then I machined through the weld.  You can see the rust peaking through right as I started to get through the tube and expose the casting:

Ready to weld with a beveled edge:

My u joint came from Amazon to convert from 1 3/16 to 1 1/16.  

Once I had all that together, I would see the distance from the beveled cut to the very end and see where to cut the tube.  I scored it with the cutting disk in the die grinder then finished the cut with the 4 1/2:

Then I heated the end of the tube up with a map gas torch and beat the u joint in.  I used a piece of angle to line up the Ujoints at each end.  I wasn't sure how close the had to be.  A co-worker told me .125° or there would be big trouble.  The internet doesn't seem to agree.  Seems like 5° is common, which I am more inclined to believe (maybe because I have to!)

Here is the end stuck in the transmission.  Pretty much right where it used to be on the yoke:

Here is the end into the pinion.  Looks good.  Not a lot of clearance on the e brake cable

Just need to weld it up

drive shaft planning

Finished painting and welding in the drivers side suspension mounts and control arms.  Since I can't tighten the through bolts super tight (would crush the frame rails) I tacked the nuts and bolt heads down with a spot weld to help hold everything still (locktight is for pansies!).  These bolts are permanent, but if I ever want them out, I put the tack in an easy to cut spot.

I decided to tackle the driveshaft next.  I put the mustang drive shaft up under there and wouldn't you know I need a longer driveshaft, not shorter.  After contemplating combing a junkyard for a manual shift pickup with an 8 foot bed, I decided to just have one made.  I asked my buddy Kenny where he had his made, and he had one laying around and several different size u-joints he said I could have.

Rusty one is from the mustang.  Black one is from Kenny's truck before he went to a two piece driveshaft to fix some vibration issues:

So yes this thing vibrates above about 80 mph.  Shortening it by 20% should cure that, so if I have vibration issues, I will get it balanced and I expect that will be the end of that.  Also, It is fun to think of my car as powerful, but it is nothing compared to kenny's truck so it should be fine.  

The U joint on one end was the right size.  The one on the other end and the two new ones that he gave me are all not the right size.  Drive shaft pivot was 1 3/16 dia, and the bit attaching to the pinion was 1 1/16 dia.  Found a spicer u joint that hits both of those (5-648x) for $30 on Amazon.  So I grabbed some brake hoses to hook up the rear brakes.

Went ahead and removed the u joint from the end of the shaft.  It is nice to have a press for this.  So much more civilized than trying to beat it out of there.

PS rear suspension finish up

Since I finished fabricating the rear suspension and everything fits, I took apart the passenger side this weekend and finalized things.

I welded patches over the holes that were for the shock mounts and painted the suspension cross bar:

I had this bar hanging from a tree to paint it.  My daughter decided that she wanted to climb the tree.  As soon as I was walking away from this after the first coat of paint, she pulled it down and threw it in the mud.  Who would have guessed there was a gene for being unwilling to tolerate my nonsense...

Painted the upper control arm:

Primed the bracket.  For the inside of the bracket, which will contact the frame rail, I painted it with galvanizing compound.  For the edges where I expect to weld I used weld through primer.  Everywhere else I used standard primer:

Although I used three large bolts to hold this in,  I didn't want any movement and wanted to give this assembly a little help, so I welded it also especially since this is one of those things that isn't allowed to break.  

I haven't used GMAW lately especially downhill or overhead, so I spent a few minutes on Weldingtipsandtricks.com before I got started. Jody Collier's videos are by far the best ones I have found online.  His arc shots really help me to see how things should look, and I especially appreciate that he explains why things are the way they are.

Weld close ups:

I think that spending the last year focused on tig welding has helped my mig welding.

Here it is with everything back in there: