new alternator bracket

I went to slide the frame back in that holds the headlights and hood on.  It hit the alternator.  I could have ground the frame down, but I didn't want to give up the strength and stiffness, and the alternator location also had a strike against it since its braked was against the hood insulation.  I decided to move it.  This let me go back to the short belt:

I laid out the hole locations using a transfer punch onto a notecard.

Then in steel:

Tabs for the alternator.  I wanted to make sure that the alternator was mounted really square so that the pulley and belt aren't fighting each other.  I tacked the tabs together so I could drill and grind them identical then cut the tacks off:

The original design used this insert so the tabs don't get bent into the alternator.  Since my tabs are really short and thick, I retained it:

Corner weld turned out nice:

I still prefer to mig nuts onto things.  I tape whatever thread sticks through during welding to avoid spatter making the bolt unremovable.

I did a quick FEA because I am worried about vibration.  The alternator is heavy and cantilevered, which will tend towards a low natural frequncy.  The belt will exert a high force on the bracket which will also drive the frequencies down.  Both the 1/rev of the engine, and the 1/rev of the alternator will be strong forcing functions, so consequently I wanted to take a look. I added the gussets you see which drove the first frequency up 50% to get away from the 1/rev for the engine. 1/ rev of the alternator will be hard to avoid.  The first mode is basically torsion of the post even though it is .095 wall. You can see I added a tab to share a bolt from the water pump.  This did surprisingly little to the first mode, but just seemed like a good move anyway.