front subframe strength and stiffen part 1

I attached the front subframe and tightened it down and it wasn't that stiff.  I don't want to count on the transmount and the bell housing to stop the engine from moving, and I want the steering rack mounts to be very stiff.  Also, 4 very large bolts held in the subframe in the mustang.
Top of the image shows the area to be worked on.  The hole is the attachment point.  You can see the spring perch near the hole

Decided to add a 3/16 doubler.  Since things were a little curved in the subframe I bent the double both ways with the press.  Shot things with a little weld through primer.  I also cut out the extra spring perch which will be in the way later.

BTW weld through primer really is weld through primer when the voltage is cranked up for thicker material.  No stubbing this time.  Zap:

 I filled in the hole in the frame, which is exactly where I want the tube to go.  I am waiting to weld it so that I can tilt it a little if I have to.  I also started trimming a piece of PVC as a template for the tubing.

Also, I was really close to running out of .030 wire.  11 lbs should hold me for a while.  Order from Amazon, comes from Grainger.  Payed less than on Grainger's site.

Shifter hole blank

I am down to number 4 from the other day.  I was up too late last night, so I only spent 45 minutes out there today.  Just enough time to cut the blank to close out the shifter hole.  Bent it with my hand in the bench vice.  A little more cutting and grinding and I should have a really good fit:

plug welding

I took care of a few things tonight.  One of them was to weld up some burn throughs.  To plug weld you need to back up the hole with a piece of copper, otherwise your attempt to plug the hole will create a bigger hole.  Here is the other key that I missed before, turn the heat way down or your copper will join the filler material.  Many places sell what are called copper spoons for plug welding.  Eastwood's is like $40.  For free you can smash an old piece of pipe in a vice:

Plug weld visible just above the clamp at the opening:

Gage pins

Made another craigslist run tonight.  Got some gage pins for pennies on the dollar.  I have wanted a set of these for a while.  I am glad to not have to use my $15 Harbor Freight transfer punches as gage pins anymore which is only slightly better than using your fingers.

Tunnel details

I had about an hour this evening and nearly felt overwhelmed by all the details that need to be completed before I can call the tunnel done:
1) Grind the underside of the tunnel
2) Cut steel and weld in the gaps on top
3) Plug all the burn throughs
4) Close out the stick shift hole
4) Seam sealer everything
5) Primer

Only thing to do is just start working.  I finished number 1 and 2/3 of number 2.

Here is the passenger side of the tunnel as it is right now

 Close up of the driver's side.

Underside.  It has come a long way since I tried to simply slam it wide enough with a hammer.

Tunnel tack

I tacked in the tunnel today.  I have been curious about welding photography and decided to go for a selfie.  I didn't have the courage to expose the arc:

Once I got everything tacked there were still a couple gaps up to about .080.  I went to the underside of the car and closed the gaps with a couple of light slams with the BFH.

tunnel prep

After a few more rounds of grind and check I am getting pretty close.  Score and fold for the tunnel works nice.  I ground all the sealer and paint off the floor where my welds will go.

Decided to take the engine out for better access to everything:

I forgot how messy the place gets when everything is out of the car.

Here I am closing up the end of the old exhaust tunnel tubes.  The one on the right is done.  Just trying to keep moisture out mostly.

For whatever reason, both sides of my new tunnel met up poorly with the floor.  I welded on some extensions.  Other side is fully welded to keep out moisture and provide strength.  This side is tacked for now.