brake line relocation

Since I swapped knuckles to put the steering arm in the front, the brake calipers are now in the back.  The brake hoses don't reach the original hook ups to the chassis, so I had to move those:

Here is the line not reaching.  You can see that as the wheels would turn the other way, the brake hose would get stretched:

Spot weld cutter to remove the bracket:

Clamp it 4 inches to the left and weld inside the holes:

I used a M10 brake union to connect the z shaped brake line that I bent.  Since this mates with the Focus lines and hoses we have to use bubble flare here (not double flare like the clutch).  The Eastwood flare dies did this well.

birds

I was planning to trace some wires in the Mustang yesterday But when cleaning things up in there I found a bird's nest in the battery tray.  Looks like I am done in there for a few weeks.  I sure hope I didn't disturb things badly enough to make a difference.

final engine assembly and install

I didn't have a clutch aligning tool.  I measured my input shaft and 3D printed one.  I could have used support material so the ring would look better.  I printed this vertically so that there would be good accuracy on the diameter.

Worked great.  Transmission slid right on.  I found  in my book after putting the clutch back in that the clutch disk should be replaced if below .290.  I think I am well below that, but decided to get it running first.

Engine goes back in:

I put in the accessories and radiator.  Hood closes no problem.

space monkey

I put the heater back in the car.  It fit pretty much perfectly.  I won't be able to reinstall the ductwork under it that pipes air to the back of the car.  Fooling with this unit I saw that it was here that my AC was leaking (green dye everywhere inside).  If I want to repair my AC, I will need a new evaporator.

I noticed when I installed my sump that my cork gasket squirted out.  I loosened the sump, shoved in back in and retightened, then thought about how annoying it would be to have it leak badly at start up.  I ordered a one piece rubber ford racing gasket that has a metal core.  Worth a few bucks to be sure I won't have an issue:

 Here is the torn cork gasket coming out.  Note that I used the smallest continuous bead of RTV possible and that pretty much coated both sides with no RTV squeeze out (but may be why the cork squirted).

New gasket looks great in there:

 I wanted to prime the pump while everything was apart.  There is a special tool for this.  I used a 1/4 inch socket on an extension, but I risk getting it stuck in there.  The electric drill will spin this well, but gets hot.  The impact gun won't spin it without going into impact mode.  Air drill is the hot setup.  I spun it until I saw oil come out the lifters.  Then put the rods back in and spun it until there was a pool of oil on top of all the rockers.  #4 and #8 cylinders did not have oil come out.  I think they are just too far from the pump which I am not turning anywhere near fast enough with the drill.

Here is the other school of thought on RTV.  Everything I took apart was like this.  It is not the way to go.

 Here it is: like a monkey ready to be shot into space.  Ready to sacrifice himself for the greater good.

AC delete

I don't want to fool with air conditioning on this build, but I don't want to have it never possible ever agin.  The unit that holds the airconditioner and the heater core has some open lines that would protrude into the engine bay.  I made a couple plugs to close them up... for now.

I turned a peice on the lathe from an aluminum rod.  I stole one of the o rings from the original line:

about to go into it's new home:

 

 

Installed:

 

  It will be good to have this huge awkward thing back inside the car. Just have to make the other plug first



doll it up

Everything looks good in the engine.  Valve timing is right.  Oil filter was clean inside.  Starting o clean things up so the engine becomes like a finished unit
Valve covers had to be done.  They were rusty.  Rather than replace let's try to paint and see if it works.  Peter scrubbed off some of the loose rust for me.

Engine looked as though it was painted in the car.  all the tough to reach items were not painted.  While out, I decided to freshen it up:

 

Done.  I really like the dark blue.

 

tear down complete

To get the harmonic damper off, I don't know, but highly suspect I should not pull it by its perimeter.  My book says I need a special tool.  Luckily I have one that I had accidentally threw in my scrap heap.  Here it is: Special tool number FMC-smellytrash

 My book warned that some timing gears are nylon and don't hold up well.  Mine are not fortunately.  I checked the chain deflection and it was <.25 inch.  Book says replace if greater than .5 inch.

My friend, Bill, recommended that I cut open the oil filter to see if there is metal in it.  The tools to cut oil filters are wicked expensive for some reason.  I can hack saw it although but that will produce the effect I am looking for (metal inside my filter.  I briefly fantasized about the superfund site I would create by opening it on the lathe and decided to try my best to rip it open with a razor to avoid commercials shot in my driveway of people cleaning baby ducks with dish soap.