So I have to make the exhaust go over the axle with enough clearance to allow the axle to go full bump with out hitting. Also, the exhaust can't hit the floor, the upper control arm, the shocks, the shock cross bar, or the lower control arm bracket. The mufflers can't be too low or at a weird pitch or yaw.
It is super close to all that stuff and it sounds hard, but the mustang exhaust was surprisingly close. With a little cut, weld, repeat, I think I have good clearance on everything:
Drivers side looking right:
Aft looking forward through the hole in the trunk:
Couple intermediate steps:
I learned a couple tricks. Even with mig where you have a free hand it is hard to hold the pipe really concentric and tack it. So I sacrificed a harbor freight tool to make a jig:
This works really well. Some may say I destroyed a tool. I prefer to think of it as giving the tool the chance to be "really useful." By the way, what kind of new world order lesson baloney is Thomas The Train aiming at with all the trains trying to be "really useful" and please Sir Topham Hatt constantly? As though my kids should aspire to be kill themselves to be some fat cat's expendable tool for the chance at some restrained praise.
Another trick that I had forgotten is related to tack welding. If you are tacking something so that it won't move around while you weld it out, by all means set your machine for your thickness and burn its brains out (bottom image below). If you are tacking something to check fit and there is a moderate chance you will need to separate the pieces again, set the machine for less voltage that you need. For my 16 ga tubes I set the machine voltage as I would for thinner 18 ga, and tack for about 1/2 sec instead of 2 sec (top image below). This way you don't have to destroy your work piece when you grind the tack off to separate the parts again.
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