Tuesday, December 23, 2014

steering column I


U joint fit right on the rack no problem:

A while back I measured the end of the steering column and found it matched the standard DD shaft perfectly.  I found out it matches almost perfectly.  It was a little too tight.  I measured the old one.  The thickness across the flats matched within .001.  The diameter was .750 for the new shaft, and .739 for the old one.  I went ahead and turned .010 off the diameter of the last 1.5 inches of the column.  This was the first time I used the 4 jaw chuck on my lathe.  Fits great now.  Snug but possible to get in there.


I realized the other day that I could no longer clean up the shop because there were too many things that had no place to go.  I bought a tool box that exactly fits under the lathe.  It showed up a couple days early so I snagged it tonight.  It is really nice to finally be able to put wide tools away.

Was: 

Is:





Sunday, December 21, 2014

Clutch MC install

I mounted the clutch master cylinder.  I used some tube and angle I had laying around to make the bracket.  I also doubled the side of the pedal box to make sure everything stays put.  Feels solid so far.


Wednesday, December 17, 2014

clutch master cylinder layout

Got the Summit order today.  I also got my Autozone order.  The hose was not what the website claimed it should be.  One of the ends was 7/16 -20 instead of 3/8 -24.  I decided to start with the master cylinder.  Of course they are designed to bolt on the other side of the fire wall so it is a little tight putting it inside.  Using a remote resevoir helps since I don't need to be level.

Step 1 check it:

Step 2) Chop everything off that I don't need.  In this case it is the tabs for the switch that prevents starting the car without the clutch depressed (I don't expect to miss that).

 

Step 3) Check the placement.  Yeah, I know this will suck to bleed, but I have some ideas...


Sunday, December 14, 2014

steering column and clutch design complete

I had a few options for steering column placement:

A) This is where other builders go.  This would be great, but my rack, header, and engine conspire to make me need 4 U-joints or a custom header.  Both options sounded bad, so I looked at some alternatives

B) Sneak through the pedal box and come through the firewall as shown.  Would be great and solves all my problems.  There just wasn't enough room.  I would have to modify a bunch of nonsense with the pedals.

C) Chop off some of the extra meat on the clutch master cylinder.  This goes through some pretty important structure on the other side.  No good.

D)  The clutch master cylinder takes up a lot of real estate.  Why not get a more compact one and put the column here (where the master cylinder connections pass through the fire wall)?

E) Reroute the hood release and go above the clutch MC.  I held the column there and turned it.  It felt weird like it would almost bind.  I think u joints shouldn't go past 30° for steering.

I believe D is the right answer.  A side benefit is no longer needing the weird Ford quick connect and the weird clutch line made.  I decided to just see what a Wilwood MC goes for:


No brainer half the price of a single u joint, and about the same as an autozone kludge job.  The position of the column is so nice now, that I believe I can connect to the rack with one u joint.

This MC can be gotten in a couple bore sizes.  A larger bore will make a stiffer pedal, but more importantly will move the slave further per inch of pedal deflection.   A quick search on the Google suggests about 1.25 inch stroke is needed on the T5 transmission.  

The Wilwood cylinders are 1.4 inch stroke, so I will assume that I should shoot for a similar slave and master bore size.  I measured the slave at .75 inches, so I bought the same for the master.

I also ordered a clutch hose from Autozone.  This is so I can avoid a rigid connection between the transmission and the chassis, and so I can avoid having my hard lines in an area where I am swinging the transmission around during install.  Since I am now 3/8 - 24 thread everywhere, Autozone PN 88257 will work ($10).  




Thursday, December 11, 2014

holding the hubs on

The front wheel hubs on a front wheel car are restrained from flying out of the bearings by the axle nut.  This seemed weird to me before because the axle floats axially.  It is actually the rear wheel bearing that can't pass through the knuckle and restrains the hub.  Here is a not to scale cross section:



The bottom line is that I need the end of the axle through the hub to hold the wheels on.  I don't need the CV joint and the now useless axles flopping around.  So I

Cut off the boot:

 pounded off the CV joint:

Extracted the guts (messy beyond your widest dreams).  (It is likely I will be killed for getting moly grease on things in the house.  Just sayin, Be skeptical of elaborate accident stories about me.)

Put back into the knuckle:

I then put the knuckles on the struts and back on the car to start assessing bump steer. I see two options for the connection of the steering arm and the tie rod:
1)  Adapt the Focus ball joint.  See how bad the bump steer is and reassess once driving.
2)  Drill the taper out of the knuckle, lathe a spacer, and bolt to a rod end. 

Will keep you posted on what I decide.  I could calculate bump steer, for either setup, but I don't have a feel for how much is tolerable.

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

"They got two stops, and then no brakes"

I wanted to spend a post talking about the hydraulic connections in your clutch, brakes, and fuel because I have had a really hard time getting educated on this either through books and through the web.


Overview
The fluid in the brake system, the clutch and the fuel system is under relatively high pressure (~1500psi for brakes) and the system that conveys it from your pedal to the brake calipers or clutch slave, must hold that pressure without significant flex, support relative motion of the suspension, and be completely reliable. Therefore things like hose clamps and radiator hoses won’t cut it.


Lines and Hoses
Because your brakes multiply the force from your foot many times, the motion of the brake caliper piston is very slight. Because there is so little motion, very little fluid moves when you step on the brake. If the hoses or lines expanded much, an air or moisture bubble got in there, or you sprung a significant leak, then one full pedal stroke wouldn’t build enough pressure to stop the car.

Since almost no fluid is moving, the lines can be very small. In your car as delivered from the factory most of these lines are rigid tubing that which is all tucked into places safe from heat and almost any source of mechanical damage. For brakes these lines are small 3/16 OD ~.032 wall thickness. For your clutch, where significant amounts of fluid do flow, (1/4 inch OD is used.)

When the line connects to something moving (like from the rigid chassis to the moving suspension), the rigid lines are connected to a flexible hose to avoid the rapid fatiguing of the rigid line.


Flare vs inverted flare
The connection of lines and hoses must be completely sealed under high pressure, and completely reliable. On your factory delivered car this is done with the inverted flare fitting. Here is where the whole thing pretty much blows up and you get very little help from the web. We are interested in cars, These typs of connections are used across the fluid handling industry, and there are many different variants that are only approximately standardized. I am going to try and describe here what is of interest to us and why.

Here is an inverted flare fitting:


Here is a flare fitting:


Please note that whether you are talking about the male piece or the female piece of the top image, you are talking about inverted flare. Flare fittings, as far as I can tell, are not of interest on cars.

Notice that the inverted flare nut in the top picture is captured by the line. Even if you dis-assemble the pieces, you cannot get the male nut off the tube. So when you make these lines, the nut is placed on the tube, then the tube end is flared. There are three common types of flares, (and many more less common). Shown below, left to right are, single flare, bubble flare, and double flare.


Bubble flare is used on all metric size tubing.

Double flare is used over single on small tubes, and especially with stronger materials like stainless steel to avoid splitting the flare from the large strain.

As far as I can tell, Single and double flare fittings are interchangeable. Bubble flare absolutely is not. You will find a bunch of stuff around saying that people have had good luck using double flare in bubble flare fittings and it seals when they don’t have access to bubble flare tools. Do not do that! This is your brake system. Darwin is at work here.

Since Darwin is in play, the quality of the forming tool matters. The dies on the cheaper tools don’t always hold the line securely and crimp evenly. Also, many of the cheaper tools don’t have enough power to deal with stainless. Some of the better tools I have found are made by Ktool, Eastwood, and Mastercool. Pay attention to what tube sizes and flare types come with your tool, and what even can be gotten separately.


SAE vs AN
Please note there is another type of fitting that looks just like the SAE fitting described above, and is used on cars, and is 100% not compatible with the fittings so far discussed. This is the AN fitting. The angle of the SAE fittings used on your car is 45°. On the AN system it is 37°. AN hardware connectors are common on aftermarket plumbing especially with fuel systems. This is what aerospace, and much of the aftermarket uses. As Carroll Smith points out design and assembly of these systems is “straightforward and expensive.” AN hardware is often recognizable by the red and blue connections, although those colors are not standardized. AN sizes are specified by dash number.

Metric vs SAE
As if there weren’t enough choices, the addition of metric adds more than one other choice for hard lines:

SAE tube, SAE threads
SAE tube, Metric threads
Metric tube, Metric threads

Also note that thread pitch is common with the metric stuff. For 6mm tube you can get inverted flare nuts in either M12 – 1.0, M12 – 1.5, or M14 – 1.5.

Lastly note that M10 – 1.0 and 3/8 – 24 are so close in size that they are interchangeable… except that M10 will be bubble flare, so they are not interchangeable and the shape of the cone in the bottom is how you can tell them apart.

Sunday, December 7, 2014

Clutch planning

Option 1) hydraulic clutch
If you put in T5 hydraulic clutch into the Google you find there is no limit to the enterprising folks that are ready to solve this problem for you:
Prices vary from the high $200's to the $600's.  I don't like this solution for a few reasons.  It is expensive.  It solves the problem for a mustang, so I still need to buy and adapt stuff.  Lastly look at that kit.  You are paying for a hydraulic cylinder and a bunch of hardware store bits, doesn't seem like a deal.

Option 2) Cable clutch
Mustang was cable clutch so I have to do nothing on the transmission end. Focus was hydraulic so, I either need to make the focus pedal pull the mustang quadrant, or install the mustang pedal in the focus.

I don't like the latter.  I feel like the fun is to make a car that looks like a focus outwardly.  Have a big truck looking clutch 3 inches further out than the other pedals kind of ruins that for me.  I pulled the clutch cable and quadrant and started to work things out.

I think it could work well spacewise but it would take some real fabricating to make it work.

Option 3) hydraulic clutch (cheaper way)
If all I need from the kit is a slave cylinder, why not find the cheapest slave I can and make it work?  I am not the first focus build to have that idea.  Awesome that this guy posted that actual part number.  I got the exact same one from autozone and am picking it up Monday evening.


I was going to cut off the hard section of clutch line that went to the focus transmission, flare it and connect it to a new clutch line to connect everything.  I measured the hard line and it was 6mm.  Which is a crappy size.  I want to buy some flare tools anyway, but 6mm is not included in any of the really nice sets.  I will try to bring the line to a brake shop and see if they can make me a line to connect my master and slave cylinders so I can avoid buying a metric flare tool for just this once.

Here is a view of the area we are talking about:

(view from the top)


(view from the side)

As you can see it is pretty tight.  A cable clutch would attach to the tab on the left side of the hole in the bottom picture and pull the clutch arm.  Alternatively, a hydraulic slave would attach to the right and push the arm.







where can the column go?

The next step is to work out the steering.  To figure out where the column can go, I need to know where the pedals and engine are.  Step on was put the engine back in.  I decided to try and put the engine and trans in together.




This was the way to to it.  I just picked the engine up really high at a severe angle. then hand lifted the transmission over the bumper.  It pretty much slid in from there.  about 1 hour faster than the way I had been doing it.

Everything lined up perfectly and bolted in without having to force or yank anything.  

Sunday, November 30, 2014

all engine mount bracketry complete

Over the last few days I duplicated all the DS brackets on the PS.  So now all the mounts are complete for now.  Sort of a milestone here! The work over the last few weeks has made this whole assembly incredibly stiff.  Here is the view of the bay with all subframes in there:

So that completes my list from July:

So I took a little while to think about where I ought to go next.  Pretty much, next I will be building the steering.  With that means the routing for the column, which brings the pedal position into things.  So I will be mounting up some interior bits and laying that stuff out next.

I tend to focus completely on tasks at hand, and don't let things like cleaning distract me.  The shop has become a mess.  I am not ashamed to show it off:




Cleaning it up is third on the new list, after close out shifter hole, and put dash frame back in.


Friday, November 28, 2014

Finished the DS connector bracket

Tapped:

 Here it is back in the car and bolted together:

Cap screws from outside the car: 

Welded on a gusset.

This bracket added a ton of stiffness.  To recap: there are a total of 3 brackets on the driver's side. 
1)  The main one.  attaches the subframe to the frame rail
2)  adds redundancy and some triangulation to the main one
3)  connects the engine subframe to the suspension subframe.

With just the main bracket in, I kicked the subframe and it visibly shook at a low frequency.  This was about cut in half with the addition of bracket #2.  After I finished #3, it is like kicking a wall

Next up is to repeat the last week's activity on the PS.

Sunday, November 23, 2014

DS subframe connection bracket

Amazon had these porter cable angle grinders for $30 so I grabbed one.  It is identical to my Craftsman one.  Which is to say it isn't very good.  Someone would make their million dollars if they made an angle grinder with a quick change arbor.


 I started the bracket that will tie the suspension subframe to the engine subframe.  Used the score and bend method from before:

 I lathed a couple rods to tap at 7/16 UNC and welded them on.  Then I shot the mating surfaces with weld through primer and tacked the bracket to the suspension subframe:
Next time I will drill out and tap the bracket, transfer the holes to the engine subframe, bolt up, weld the scored area, and make a gusset and weld it on.

Friday, November 21, 2014

DS subframe mount complete

Welded on the doubler.

Here is the underside where the new subframe tube mounts onto the frame rail doubler. These are my first upside down welds.  The technique seemed to be: dwell for a short moment on the 16ga frame rail, then drag the pool onto the 3/16 and dwell longer.  I did a series of spot welds without letting the weld totally cool before advancing.  The last thing I need is for the puddle to fall out leaving a humongous rip in the frame rail.

Here you can see the piece that plugs the hole, and the tube welded on.  A Gusset will be added to the back so that all the force in the tube isn't getting resolved into a piece of 1/8 sheet only.

If I sit on the bumper and kick the subframe it is probably at least 4x as stiff front to back now.  It is really hard for me to estimate what crash loads would be like on any of this stuff, and I haven't found how to design for it in any of the books I have been reading. Fortunately there are 3 more brackets to make for a total of 7 tying the engine into the car.  I am really trying to push for overkill on this to protect myself from my ignorance.

Thursday, November 20, 2014

Bracket final fab before install

Continued pushing on with the doubler today.  Welded on the rods today, then brought the holes up to tap size and tapped them:

Tapped holes:

My biggest drill wasn't enough to make big enough holes for the rods to go it.  I had to use the plasma to enlarge the holes a bit:

Here you can maybe finally see what I am up to if you had trouble picturing it.  The bracket will fit up onto the frame rail.  The tube will Connect to the bottom of the bracket, and go down and to the left and meet up with the subframe.



Wednesday, November 19, 2014

Lining up the DS subframe reinforcing bracket

Trying to hold all the pieces in place that need holes and need welded takes way more hands than I have.  Also, I don't like clamps for that sort of job.  First I drilled the holes in the flange at a small size.

 I transferred the holes to the doubler at the small size.  Then I tacked the two together (below).  I figured out that tacks I want to separate later I should ignore the settings for the welder, and use a very insufficient voltage.  That way the wimpy welds are easy to cut later.

Not shown are the rods I turned.  If I just tapped the doubler I would get about a thread and a half holding the bracket on.  So I used the rods to double the doubler.  Tripler?  Anyway.  Shot it all with weld through primer and will pick it up next time.

Heater is kicking butt BTW.  Warmed the shop to a balmy 47° from 33° in about 35 minutes then ran at less than 50% duty cycle to maintain it.

Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Lowes

Tonight I stopped into Lowes to snag a couple cap screws to hold in the bracket I am welding up.  Oddly, at the register the cashier told me she wouldn't sell them to me since the bar code was rubbed off.  She tried once to type them into the system and didn't find anything.  Then she offered to call hardware.  When I said please, she said they wouldn't be able to help.  No offer to get someone, to help me.  Just sent me away.  I started to go back there to look for some screws with an in tact bar code, but then I got ticked at the disrespectful and lazy way I was handled and flung them into a display and left.

I wish there was some sort of card they could give people who spend like $5000 per year in their store that you could show them so they would make a little bit of effort.  Not the first time the Hatfield store on 40 ft Road has jerked me around.  It will be the last.

Sorry to bug you all with this, but I think it comes with the territory of parts and tools bought and endorsed in pursuit of the build.  Especially since the post just below this one has >$100 worth of stuff bought at either Lowes or HD in the last 5 days.

Saturday, November 15, 2014

Here, take this extra pair of gloves, my hands are starting to get a little sweaty.

I went out in the garage on Friday and it was 40°.  I went right back inside.  I hate to work when it gets that cold.  I resist stooping down because I hate how cold my clothes feel.  My hands don't work right, I fog up my face shield.  Fortunately, last weekend I ordered a 5000 watt commercial forced air heater for the garage.  I chose electric over kerosene or propane for a few reasons:

1) I don't like messing with carbon monoxide, especially if I forget about it and it runs a long time
2) I want to be able to leave it unattended and not always be thinking about what is near it.
3) I don't want to keep all that fuel in the garage
4) I don't want to keep all that fuel outside
5) I don't want nasty films, odors, or soot deposited on things
6) I don't want to worry about running out of fuel, or having to remember to go get more.
7) I already have 240V power in the garage

Anyway, I got the Stelpro RUH5 from Amazon.

It has a thermostat that switches the full 240V  I ran 3/4 EMT tubing down and put the thermostat just inside the door, so I can reach out and crank it on a while before I go out.  

I was worried about whether it would be enough power.  It seems to be; Tonight it raised the temperature from 40° to 48° in maybe 30 minutes.  I will seal some gaps out there to help efficiency.

 After I finished installing the heater I started cutting metal for the extra subframe mounts.  Had to add a block to get a shallow enough angle:

 I am getting better at drafting brackets onto square tube then cutting them out: